A Little Trip to Baltimore and Beyond


The Journey: Baltimore and Beyond

Sunday, May 20 – Monday, May 21, 2012

Sunday, May 20

Today we set out to tour Fort McHenry and Baltimore’s Inner Harbor.
Several years ago, when we were still teaching and working with Odyssey of the Mind, we had a sixth grade team from West Middle School that advanced to the World Finals (and, for the record, placed second in their problem) at the University of Maryland.  When the competition was completed, we drove to Baltimore’s Inner Harbor for a half day of sightseeing and winding down from a long year of working on the Odyssey problem.
We were all quite impressed with the Inner Harbor and all the shops and enjoyed wandering around and looking at all the sights.  I thought the kids might enjoy a water taxi ride out to Fort McHenry (we’d never been there), but they chose to do other things.  Barbara had to stay close by because one of the boys was going to be picked up for a flight somewhere else rather than returning on the bus with us.  Since all the kids were with adult sponsors, I purchased a ticket and rode out to the fort to see what it was all about.
I don’t remember much now about that first visit except that I saw the most marvelous film about Francis Scott Key and the British bombardment of Fort McHenry and Baltimore.  At the end of the film, when Key was standing on a British ship and looking toward land to see which flag was flying over the fort, the music of the Star Spangled Banner began playing and a screen rolled up in a large window, displaying one of the largest flags I have ever seen, waving proudly over the old fort.
I was so blown away by the presentation and sights that I couldn’t wait to tell Barbara and put it on the agenda for a future trip.  Alas, even though we came close to Baltimore on a few occasions, we never returned until this morning.  Based on what I’ve talked about over the years, we decided that a morning at Fort Henry was a priority.
As with so many things that we once enjoyed, things had changed at the park, some for the better and some maybe not.  The old visitors’ center was completely demolished and a new one has been built on the site.  The new center is extremely nice, and since I don’t remember much about the old one, I’ll count it as a change for the better.  We went in to watch the movie, but they did away with the old one, which concentrated on Francis Scott Key and how he came to be captured by the British and taken to one of their ships during the battle.  Instead, the new focus is more on the actual bombardment of the fort and the city.  Still, the movie ends much as the original, with Key standing on the ship out in the harbor, searching through the smoke to see which country held the fort.  And, as the music began, the large window opened to the sight of the huge 15-star flag flying over the old fort.  And, my heart was in my throat again at that beautiful sight and the thought of what those early patriots endured to not only gain, but to maintain our freedoms.
When the movie was over, we walked around the area and over to the old fort to see what we could see.  It was a beautiful, breezy morning, providing a myriad of photo opportunities; and you know us...if there are photo ops, we aren’t far behind!

Much could be written about the history of Fort McHenry, but in this posting we’ll mostly let the pictures do the talking.

Readers will notice a lot of focus on the flag, but after all, that is what Fort McHenry was all about.  Some of our focus was on sore feet, as Barbara shows in this collage.

After we had done all the walking and climbing we wanted to do at the park, we returned to the visitor center to do some serious souvenir shopping for grandkids (and got a couple of things for ourselves.

Then, it was back to the car for the short (we thought) hop to Inner Harbor.  The map showed that we could go a short distance, park the car free of charge, and catch a water taxi to where we wanted to go.  Unfortunately, the map did NOT show that major roads throughout the area had been closed off because of bridge construction.  We had a bit of adventure negotiating detours before we found our way back to I-95 and the short ride to Inner Harbor.

A first glance at Inner Harbor will immediately let one know that it is all about tourism and money.  It’s a beautiful and fun place, but the shops and restaurants are definitely high-dollar.  And in case on should forget that it is about money, all he/she has to do is look at the boats and yachts tied up in the harbor.

The main reason for our visit to Inner Harbor today was to have lunch with the “other” Heather Dondis, Andy’s sister.  Yep, that’s right folks, Andy’s wife and sister are both named Heather.  In an odd twist, Andy’s folks had made a trip from Boston to Dallas to visit our Heather, Andy, and the kids, while we were in Baltimore spending time with their Heather.

After we met Heather, we wandered around a bit until we decided on a restaurant for lunch.  We settled on the Kona Grill and were seated in an area where we could enjoy beautiful views while we ate our meal.  Needless to say (even though we’ll say it anyway), there was lots of talking, photo-taking, eating, more talking, more photos, and on and on.  It was a thoroughly delightful visit with Heather and she was a most gracious hostess for our short visit.
Heather was working and packing for a move this weekend, so we said our goodbyes after lunch and we returned to our sightseeing and shopping.  We noticed that there was a small performance area close to some of the shops, so we stopped for a few minutes to watch a very good and really funny juggling act.  Then, it was back to the shops for some more shopping for the grandkids.  We found a candy store that had a lot of unusual candies, such as Lego candy...hard candy shaped like Lego blocks...you can play with them and then eat them!

We also found some things we liked for the older grandkids.  There really is something for everyone in the Inner Harbor shops.
We were full from our dinner and our feet and legs were telling us it was time to let them rest for awhile, so we slowly made our way back to where we had parked the car, paid our toll, and made the 20-minute drive back down I-95 to our motel to kick back and relax for the evening.
Monday, May 21
Before we left Mineola on this trip, Aunt TJ suggested that we might consider going to Dover Delaware to see if we could get information on some of my ancestors.  TJ is really big on genealogy and has traced our family back to a family of Rodneys who settled in Delaware along with William Penn.  Caesar Rodney was a signer of the Declaration of Independence, but was not in our direct lineage.
The Rodneys established the Byfield Plantation just outside of Dover and we found through some internet searches that there is a prominent marked displayed on the property close to Dover Air Force Base, so we decided a picture of me at the marker would fit in somewhere in the genealogical studies.
We figured that we weren’t all that far from Dover and it might be interesting to see what we could find, so we got up early this morning, had breakfast, packed the car, and left Baltimore in a driving rainstorm.  Since it was Monday morning and we picked the rush hour to leave, it was a little dicey in places, but we soon found our way to U.S. 301 and headed east to the Bay Bridge over Chesapeake Bay.
We’ve driven over the Bay Bridge several times in previous trips to the DelMarVa peninsula to visit our friends Gary and Joyce Whitaker, but it is always a thrill to make that approach to the tol l booth and then begin the ascent that takes us over the wide waters of Chesapeake Bay.  As Snoopy might say, “It was a dark and stormy morning,” but Barbara was still able to get some good photos along the way.

It took quite awhile before we got out of all the rainy stuff and felt comfortable getting back up to standard highway speeds, but we finally ran out of the really wet stuff as we neared one of our favorite stopping places on the peninsula, a large outlet mall.
We made a short comfort stop; then I got a cup of coffee while Barbara checked out a couple of shoe stores. Just as we were ready to leave, she saw another store she wanted to look in.  As luck would have it, she found just the right pair of shoes, so the stop was well worth the time and effort.
Back on the highway, we wandered through Maryland and into Delaware (couldn’t tell the difference) on narrow back roads.  We were sure at one point that we were totally lost, but when we stopped at an old tire repair shop, we found that we were just where we were supposed to be.  All we had to do was to keep on keepin’ on.

We finally found all the connecting roads that led us around Dover, past the main gates of Dover AFB, and out to the area that was once the Byfield Plantation.  We managed to get some good photos of the marker and the surrounding land, but found that all the land has now been sold off and no one knows for sure where the old family cemetery is located.
We decided to drive back into Dover to find something to eat and maybe pick up some information that would be helpful in our genealogical search.  As luck would have it, we found a sign pointing us to an information center that we hoped would provide us with some brochures.
What we didn’t know was that the information center was not the typical visitor center we were expecting.  Instead, it was the building that housed the state archives.  We went inside and found that we could have access to the archives, but there were some very stringent rules.  Once inside, we felt like kids going to the library for the very first time and not understanding anything at all about how we were supposed to get information.

Luckily, we did find someone to help us (although we kept making lots of mistakes and getting semi-politely reprimanded for them, and after three hours of digging through books and files, came away with a treasure trove of material to take back to TJ to help in her search for our ancestors.  It was interesting to find that there is a more or less direct lineage for the Faulks (Mother’s family) back to Jane Seymour, one of the wives of Henry the Eighth.
After paying for all the copies of reports and letters, we went back outside to get in the car and continue our journey back to Richmond.  We had told the kids we would take them to dinner at Thai Diner Too tonight, but had to call and tell them we had no idea when we would arrive in Richmond tonight and we’d just have to reschedule our dinner date.
The rest of the day was spent traveling and sightseeing.  We had already decided that we didn’t want to return to the D.C. area they way we came in this morning, so we headed south instead, driving through Delaware and back into Maryland on the peninsula.  The route took us through one of our favorite cities, Salisbury, Maryland, where Gary and Joyce Whitaker and their girls lived for many years.  We have fond memories of trips we took to see the Whitaker family and adventures we shared in the area.
Gary and Joyce followed their daughters to the Houston area several years ago, so there was no point in stopping to see them today, but as we got into town, Barbara called Joyce to say that we were just minutes away from their old house and we wished we could stop to see them.  Joyce got a big kick out of that and then she and Barbara got in a long discussion about when we had come to see them and what vehicles we used.  Barbara and I are both convinced that we drove our first motorhome, Winnie (short for Winnebago) to Salisbury one summer, but we can’t pinpoint when it might have been...guess we should have started journaling before we retired, because many of those memory cells seem to have gone into a witness protection plan.
Anyway, the point was that we drove through Salisbury and on down the peninsula into the Virginia section, just taking out time (because that’s what one has to do in driving this particular highway...speed limits rarely get above 55 MPH and 45 MPH is the limit on most stretches.  Still, it’s an interesting drive.
At the south end of the peninsula we came to one of our favorite travel spots, the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and tunnel system, a 17.6 mile system that bridges the mainland and the peninsula across the mouth of Chesapeake Bay.
We stopped before we reached to toll booth to look at the scenery and get a breath of salt water air (and, of course, take some photos).

Then, it was back on the road with our next stop at a scenic area on a manmade island.  The area houses a restaurant, gift shop, and many opportunities to watch ships as they sail into or out of Chesapeake Bay.  On previous trips we have seen Navy vessels (even a submarine one time), but today there were only a few tankers and barges maneuvering to enter the bay.
The bridge-tunnel system consists of more than 12 miles of trestled roadway, two mile-long tunnels under the bay, two bridges, four man-made islands, and almost twomiles of causeway.  The water depth under the trestles ranges from 30 - 45 feet.  The highest points, over the North Channel, are 75 feet above the water, providing high water clearance for the fishing fleets.  The islands were created by dropping thousands of car-sized boulders (riprap) to create the outer rims, and then filling in the centers with nearly two million tons of sand and gravel, forming land plots above the water about the size of the old Yankee Stadium.  The concrete posts of the trestles, if laid end-to-end, would stretch more than one hundred miles.
The bridge and tunnel system is a unique example of man working hand-in-hand with natural forces to create what was named in 1964 as one of the "Seven Engineering Wonders of the Modern World."
We've been through the system in cars, motor homes, and even on the motorcycle, and each trip has been a new and exciting experience.
We left the scenic turnout and made our way south to the mainland through parts of Virginia Beach, Newport News, and Hampton before giving up on our plans for a seafood dinner and stopping instead at a KFC for mashed potato bowls.
The rest of the trip to Richmond and Midlothian was relatively unexciting and we made it back to Mike and Kelly's home just as it was getting dark.  Mike and Kelly were waiting up for us to hear about our adventures of the last three days, but we had to wait until the next morning before seeing Miss Ava.
"Travel is more than seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." - Miriam Beard
Back in Midlothian with the kids,
Jim/Dad/Gramps and Barbara/Mom/Grams